Hong Kong Central and Admiralty

Hong Kong Central and Admiralty were the original heart of colonial Hong Kong which housed many of the most important government and trading buildings. Today it retains its financial significance and now holds some of the most impressive skyscrapers found anywhere in the world. Although there are a few historic buildings such as Government House and St. John’s Cathedral dotted around, they seem uncomfortably out of place, surrounded by the glass and metal towers that define Central and Admiralty. Getting around this part of town can be a confusing business, with the quickest routes often running along raised walkways and through shopping malls, but fortunately there are plenty of signs to guide you. However, some of this district’s claustrophobia may be relieved when the land reclamation project currently underway is complete: a swathe of sea stretching from the Outlying Islands Ferry Pier across to Causeway Bay will soon be watery no more, but exactly what the land will be used for is a source of contention. Although civil right groups want the area to provide an open-plan promenade offering a much-needed sense of space, commercial interests often seem to win out in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong's Mid-Levels

As you ascend away from the narrow strip of coastal Central through the nightlife zone of Lan Kwai Fong there is some respite from the skyscrapers, elevated walkways and congestion in the form of Hong Kong Park and the Zoological and Botanical Gardens. To the west, the Mid-Levels has long been a favorite expat residence, and is now served by the world’s longest outdoor escalator, which stretches some 2,600 feet up the slope and takes 20 minutes. The Mid-Levels Escalator runs downwards from 6-10 am and upwards from 10:20 am-midnight.

Hong Kong's Zoological and Botanical Gardens

The Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens are located on Albany Road, Central. on the northern slopes of Victoria Peak, and provide a soothing break from the city below. The extensive gardens were originally built in 1871 and are divided by Albany Road with an underground walkway joining the two sections. In the park you’ll find over 1,000 different plant species on show. The park is also home to a number of animals and birds, including orangutans, monkeys, a tree kangaroo and pink flamingos – whose sounds are very welcoming after the noise of car horns downtown.

Hong Kong Park

This large park is just east of the Botanical Gardens and makes a pleasant diversion from shopping at nearby Pacific Place mall. Inside the park you’ll find scenic gardens, a small lake, a children’s playground and, of most interest, the Edward Youde Aviary (daily 9 am-5 pm; free). The aviary is discreetly housed under an arched swathe of mesh and its raised walkways allow you to traverse the tropical foliage, which is alive with the color of its 150 species of Southeast Asian birds. Birdspotters might also want to come to the park on Wednesday mornings as there are guided tours (see Bird Watching, p. 540, for more). Also within Hong Kong Park you’ll find the Flagstaff House Museum of Teaware, which is worth a visit as much for its architecture and history as its contents. The building was originally constructed in 1846 and is Hong Kong’s oldest remaining colonial building. Inside, you’ll find an extensive collection of teaware spanning from the Tang dynasty to the 20th century.