Freiburg
Freiburg is a beautiful city in the southern Black Forest. It has a population of around 200,000 but somehow manages to maintain the unhurried charm of a small town. Its location between the Rhine plains and the western edge of the Black Forest assures a mild climate. Spring comes early; autumn comes late and drags. It claims the sunniest climate in Germany (although since reunification that honor actually belongs to the island of Rügen).
Although the Old Town suffered severe damage during World War II, it has been lovingly restored. The magnificent Gothic cathedral is the main sight but the entire Old Town invites to wander and explore. Rather unusually for a city of this size, many of the Old Town’s streets still have “Bächle,” little channels with water. In summer, children of all ages cool off in the water. According to legend, if you step in a Bächle by mistake you shall return to Freiburg.
Freiburg’s best-known sight is the magnificent Münster on Münsterplatz. Small parts of the Romanesque church built around 1200 survived, but most of the building is Gothic. Construction of the Gothic structure started in 1354, but it was only consecrated in 1513. The belfry is housed in a delicately crafted openwork spire of stone. It has been described as the most beautiful tower in Christianity. The abundant use of gargoyles is a constant source of amusement – look out for the one showing his rear, confirming that the medieval church was not as prudish as commonly thought. The interior is bright with several important art works. Some of the windows in the south transept date from the 13th century. The 380-ft tower can be ascended, via 328 steps, for wonderful views of Breisgau and the Vosges Mountains in France.
Several restaurants are housed in the buildings facing the church. The most beautiful of these is the arcaded, red Historisches Kaufhaus (Historic Department Store), erected in 1522-32. It was used by foreign traders in the city. The statues adorning the front of the building are Habsburg emperors.
The 18th-century, Baroque Wetzingerhaus houses the Museum für Stadtgeschichte (Local History). The magnificent Baroque staircase is especially worth seeing. Nearby is the 1733 Alte Wache (Old Guard House). It currently houses a wine shop with tasting opportunities for Baden wines.
At the south end of the square is the Baroque archbishop’s palace and next to it the Mittelalterliches Foltermuseum (Medieval Torture Museum), which takes a serious look at justice in the Middle Ages. Popular exhibits include chastity belts, a guillotine, and instruments of shame.
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