Sightseeing in Oviedo

The interesting newer section of Oviedo forms a natural extension north from the old quarter and most of the sights, while the city’s main park, Campos de San Francisco, is just west of both. Plaza La Escandalera is a busy nucleus between these three areas. From it, the main pedestrian street of C/ Pelayo (which becomes C/ Palacio Valdez) runs north through the newer district, connecting with other pedestrian zones in an area lined with coffee houses and stores all packed with people. In the old quarter the cathedral and many of the sights are gathered around the Plaza de Alfonso II El Casto. The old quarter is small and easily navigated afoot, as is the rest of Oviedo. The 17th-century Plaza de la Constitución is the location of the Ayuntamiento and is the center of activity – but don’t miss the Plaza del Paraguas, an erstwhile milk market named for the huge umbrella sculpture in its center, and the Plaza de Trascorrales with bright, multicolored homes around it and, wouldn’t you know, a sculpture of a milk lady.

La Catedral of Oviedo

Though it has plenty of Gothic appeal, the intrigue of Oviedo’s cathedral is buried within. It was begun in the 14th century over the Pre-Romanesque remains of King Alfonso II’s Iglesia de San Salvador and the palace he had modeled on Charlemagne’s castle in Aachen. The Cámara Santa, the cathedral’s main attraction, was preserved from that period. This vaulted holy chamber, a World Heritage Site, rests beneath the Capilla de Santa Leocadia; it is all that survives from King Alfonso II’s palace, built in the ninth century as a coffer for holy relics. A peek into the dank confines reveals the Caja de Agate, a bejeweled Romanesque chest that was a gift from Prince Fruela to the cathedral. The silver Arco Santo, in a protective glass case, is said to house sacred relics from the Holy Land, including a piece of the crucifix. The arc was salvaged from the Cathedral of Toledo, then capital of the Visigothic kingdom, when the Moors overran the city and effectively conquered Visigoth Spain. Those who survived the attack fled to the mountains in the north, the arc with them. Above the arc are two jewel-encrusted crosses. The first, the Cruz de los Ángeles, dates to King Alfonso II’s time and is recognized as the symbol of Oviedo. The other is the Cruz de la Victoría, which legend holds was a wooden cross carried by King Pelayo during the triumphant battle over the Moors at Covadonga. It was later covered in jewels by King Alfonso III and emblazoned on the Asturian flag along with the Latin motto, “Hoc signo, tvetvr pivs, Hoc signo vinvitvr inimicvs” (this sign protects the pious and defeats the enemy).

Also worth visiting in the cathedral are the Capilla del Rey Casto (Chapel of the Chaste King), a mausoleum bearing the tombs of King Alfonso II and other royalty; the Jardine de los Peregrinos, originally a graveyard for expired pilgrims; the Museo Diocesano, housing liturgical relics; and the Gothic cloister and tower, the latter of which can be climbed for a lookout on the city.

Sights Near Oviedo's Catedral

To the left of the Catedral is the Monasterio de San Pelayo with its 16th-century church and Romanesque cloister. On Calle de San Vicente, the street running behind the Catedral, you’ll find the stained Romanesque Iglesia de Santa María la Real, originally the temple to the adjoining San Vicente monastery that was founded in the eighth century by Fruela I, heir to King Pelayo. The Museo Arqueológico is housed in the cloister of this, the Antiguo Monasterio de San Vicente. The upper cloister contains prehistoric relics, while the rest of the rooms are divided according to Pre-Romanesque and Romanesque periods. Along with an elaborate mosaic by Vega de Ciego, there is a bevy of stones. At times you may find yourself staring at a wall with a bunch of these stones attached with no cheat cards and you’ll wonder what it all means.

The Museo de Bellas Artes is just off the Plaza de Alfonso II in front of the Catedral on the street called Rúa. This collection of fine arts is stashed in the 18th-century Palacio de Velarde and the adjoining 17th-century Oviedo Portal. Though a small collection of 16th-century European paintings are on display, the highlight is the 19th- and 20th-century canvases by Asturian artists.