A Walk through Essential Madrid

Tie on the walking shoes and make tracks for the Puerta del Sol. The “Gateway to the Sun” takes its name from, quite naturally, a gate (upon which, tradition has it, a sun was depicted) that once stood as part of a 15th-century defensive bulwark isolating the old city from its outlying communities. The city walls have long since been torn down, but the Puerta still serves in much the same capacity as it did in times gone by – as a main transportation hub where, instead of the buses and taxis of today, stagecoaches once departed to the outlying provinces. Its central role in the community and country meant that it was always first in line to receive the latest urban improvements (gas lanterns, beast trams, electric streetcars). With roads trailing off in all directions, it is little wonder that the Puerta has repeatedly played host to riots and protests (the most recent war in Iraq saw as many as 50,000 people packed defiantly around it on a weekly basis).

Today the half-moon-shaped plaza is loomed over by government buildings and surrounded by cafés, souvenir stores and heladerías (ice cream shops). The statue of Carlos III in the center honors the man credited with giving the city a much-needed face lift, but we will return to him at the close of this tour. For now, take note of the bronze and stone statue known as Oso y Madroño, or bear and berry tree, which is the city’s emblem. Before heading down Calle Mayor, stop in at La Mallorquina, the classic café and pastry shop on the corner. Though the place is dependably crowded, don’t be dissuaded; it is efficiently serviced (a rarity in Spain) by an eager staff clad in traditional white uniforms that roams tirelessly behind the counters. Order a flaky palmera or a chocolate-filled napolitina para llevar (to go), or climb the stairs to the second- floor cafeteria for a coffee and view of the busy Puerta del Sol below.

Plaza Mayor

Heading down Calle Mayor a few blocks, stop at the kiosco (news stand) to pick up the day’s paper for reading material at the following stop. Make the next left, passing through one of the nine archways that lead into the Plaza Mayor, the foremost example of Habsburg Madrid. This main square is one of Spain’s two beloved (Salamanca’s being the other) and was designed by Juan Gómez de Mora as ordered by Felipe III, whose equestrian statue stands in the center. The rectangular plaza, with its expansive, stone-paved footing, is surrounded by a five-story façade topped with steeples and lined with balconies, under which is a shaded ground floor arcade housing knick-knack shops and restaurants. To read the paper, have a seat at one of the hundreds of café tables lining the periphery – other than your preference for sun or shade, it doesn’t matter which restaurant you choose, as the food and prices vary little from one to the next (all are equally pricey).

Now imagine the Plaza as it once was, a crowded city marketplace desperately in need of a cleaning, as a make-shift bull rink lined with bleachers stuffed with thousands upon thousands of spectators eager to see the nobleman on horseback prevail over the beast. On lighter days, Saints were canonized here, kings proclaimed and fireworks set off. During its darkest period, the ghastly affairs of the Inquisition unfolded within. It’s hard to imagine that where the Peruvian band is playing so happily over there, a garotte was once being prepared and the condemned nervously savoring his last few breaths. On one infamous day in June of 1680, a bloodthirsty crowd endured an elaborate 14-hour spectacle in which over 100 criminals were paraded around and ultimately sentenced. The affair was set in motion by the maniacal and generally lackadaisical Carlos II, who decided to host this auto de fé to relieve the city’s over-crowded jails. While some of the criminals escaped with lesser sentences, such as lashings or extended jail time, 19 of the least fortunate were condemned to death and burned at the stake, much to the restless crowd’s approval.

Snap back into the 21st century and notice the Casas de la Panadería (Bakery House), immediately striking for the nudity of its colorful fresco-adorned façade, painted during the 1990s. At the other end of the square is La Carnicería, a former butcher shop now housing the municipal offices. Toss the paper away and head out the southeastern side of the Plaza through the Arco de Cuchilleros, but not before stopping in the low-ceilinged Las Rejas Mesón (C/ Escalerilla de Piedra 2) for a tapa. It’s just one of many tabernas filling the caves beneath the Plaza Mayor. Continue past the pubs and eateries of Calle Cuchilleros (traditionally the street of the cutlery) to arrive at Plaza de Puerta Cerrada.

Casa de Cisneros and Plaza de la Villa

From the Plaza de Puerta Cerrada, follow Calle Sacramento through the medieval area to the Casa de Cisneros, a restored 16th-century palace dedicated to the respected cardinal. Make a right just before it to enter the striking Plaza de la Villa just off Calle Mayor, a perfect example of medieval Madrid. On the left is the Casa de la Villa, designed by Mora in 1640 to house the Town Council and Jail. To the right is the 15th-century Palacio y Torre de Lujanes, one of the oldest surviving buildings in the city and where it is said King Francis I of France was held prisoner in the aftermath of the Battle of Pavia. Returning to Calle Mayor, hang a right to visit the Mercado de San Miguel, once a dingy, roofless meat market that today is covered and packed with fresh produce, fish and meats. Stock up for a citified picnic as the walk leads into Bourbon Madrid.

Plaza de Oriente and Palacio Real

Cross the street and follow Calle Santiago to the splendid Plaza de Oriente fronting the Palacio del Oriente, otherwise known as the Palacio Real. The Plaza itself is the product of Napoleon’s demolition-happy brother Joseph, who ordered the area cleared of some 50 houses, convents, and at least one church and library. His efforts, during the short time his reign interrupted the Bourbons, earned him the moniker, El Rey de las Plazuelas (King of the Small Plazas). Construction of the Palacio Real in all its Neoclassical immensity, was begun in 1737 under Felipe V of the Bourbon dynasty, three years after the Moorish alcázar (fortress) that previously occupied the space was destroyed by fire on Christmas night. An Italian architect was commissioned for the task of creating this, the grandest European palace. The granite and limestone was painstakingly hauled in from the Sierra de Guadarrama Mountains, and when the project was finally completed under a succeeding Italian (Felipe V did not live to see his vision come to life), it amounted to over 2,000 rooms, the bulk of which remain unfinished to this day. Where it is accessible, the Palace is lavishly decorated with tapestries, porcelains, chandeliers and paintings; its rooms correspond to various themes such as the throne room, the rooms of the Real Oficina de Farmacia, with their endless array of tonics and royal medicines, and the Real Armería, displaying a vast collection of armor and weapons from the 16th and 17th centuries, including the swords of notable conquistadores. The Palace served as the royal residence until 1931, when Alfonso XIII abdicated the throne (his room remains as he left it). Today it only sees King Juan Carlos (who prefers to live outside the city at the Zarzuela Palace) during royal ceremonies.

Having visited the palace, a drink on the patio of the Café Oriente is in order before heading down C/ Carlos III for the return trip. You’ll pass the Teatro Real, which is just across the plaza from the palace, and then Plaza Isabel II. The theater was ordered built by Queen Isabel II and was remodeled in 1997 as the city’s opera house. From here, Calle del Arenal leads back to our starting point, but not before a quick stop at the Chocolatería de San Gines (near the church of the same name) for a steaming treat of churros con chocolate. Yes, it’s a tour high in calories, but you’re on vacation! And finally, back to the Puerta del Sol where the spirit of Carlos III (1759-88) lives on. The Madrileños fondly refer to him as el alcalde mejor, El Rey (the city’s best mayor, the King), on account of the extensive urban renewals implemented during his reign, creating parks and fountains and beautifying the city. His statue faces the old Casa de Correos (Post Office), built under his watchful eye and now occupied by the gobernacíon (Ministry of the Interior). Look up. Atop this building is the well-known tower added in the 19th century with its four-sided clock. Each New Year’s Eve the Madrileños pile into Puerta del Sol and usher in the New Year by eating 12 grapes, one for each chime of the clock. To do so, it is said, is to bring good luck in the coming year. Now look down and you will see the marker for kilometro zero, the point from which all road distances in Spain are measured and where this tour concludes.