Sightseeing in Kowloon

In Kowloon, set a little back from the harbor, Salisbury Road is home to one of Hong Kong’s most famous historic buildings, the Peninsula Hotel, which sits behind bubbling fountains and green Rolls Royces (the hotel has a fleet of them). Immediately east of here, Nathan Road is Kowloon’s primary artery, running south-to-north all the way to the New Territories through some of Hong Kong’s busiest shopping districts.

Heading north from the harbor along Nathan Road, you’ll pass the infamous Chungking Mansions on the right and the History Museum. A few hundred yards farther on from Chungking Mansions, stretching north from westerly Haiphong Road, lies the green expanse of Kowloon Park. On the southeastern corner of the park, the re-built Kowloon Mosque was originally constructed by the British for its Indian troops stationed here and remains a hub of Islamic life in downtown Hong Kong, although access is denied to non-Muslims. From the mosque, Nathan Road continues its shop-happy northward journey into Jordan, where you’ll find Temple Street Market, Yaumatei Market, the Jade Market and a Tin Hau Temple, all to the west. From here on up, this part of town is all about markets and, progressing northwards through Yaumatei and into Kowloon’s northernmost district, Mongkok, you’ll come across the electronics market, Flower Market and the Bird Market, all to the east of Nathan Road.

Hong Kong History Museum, 100 Chatham Road. This is an easy place to while away a few hours with fascinating, well-designed displays that trace Hong Kong’s history from earliest times. The museum is divided into four sections: Natural History, Archeology, Ethnography and Local History. Highlights are traditional local garments, photos of Olde Worlde Hong Kong and extensive dioramas.

Kowloon Park, 22 Austin Road, Kowloon. After the British gained Kowloon they were quick to see the military advantage of this hilly location overlooking the harbor and established the Whitfield Barracks on the site of the current park. It remained a military domain until 1971 when it was opened as a public park by the governor of the time, Sir David Trench. The HK$300 million cost of the transformation was donated by the Royal Hong Kong Jockey Club and the park has flourished as a haven from the hustle and bustle ever since.

More than just an open space, Kowloon Park is also a center of recreation, with excellent public facilities, and if you’d like a swim and some sunbathing there are good indoor and outdoor pools, although the cheap price and central location mean that they can get very busy. In the park you’ll find a pleasant fitness trail, eight fitness areas, a maze, a number of gardens (including a Chinese traditional garden and a sculpture garden) and a bird lake with aviary.

Tin Hau Temple, Public Square Street, Kowloon. This small temple, dedicated to Tin Hau, Goddess of the Sea, offers a quiet escape from the busy market area surrounding it. Inside, you’ll find giant incense coils hanging from the ceiling, which fill the small temple with smoke. Despite its small size the temple is a popular place of worship and you should be careful not to offend with your photography. The temple is surrounded by a small square, often filled with crowds of old men playing intense games of Chinese chess and mah jong.

Wong Tai Sin Temple. Although it’s actually in the New Territories, this striking temple is most easily accessed from Kowloon. Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian worshippers all come here to pray and it’s also a popular spot for divination. If you’re interested in having your face or palm read (HK$100-200) you might even be able to find an English-speaking teller to decode your fate. To see the temple at its best, visit on the weekend, when you’ll be greeted by clouds of thick incense burning from the massive ceiling coils, and the clatter of bamboo pots filled with divination sticks as people keenly await their fortunes.